Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 11:14 pm
Now the interesting stuff can go on. One trip to Mazda later, and I was $370 poorer, but was in possession of an oil pump, and the necessary bolts for both it and the water pump. It was by this stage that I noticed my \"engine parts\" box diminishing - always a good sign - assuming of course that the engine is getting bigger in the process!
So, on went the oil pump. The 2 longest bolts went into the bottom, the next 3 mid-sized bolts, and finally the smallest bolt into the top. All I had to watch out for here was that I correctly put the RTV silicon in the correct places on the pump - you basically make an upside-down U shape on the back of the pump so that it can properly contain the oil. We don't need it on the bottom half, as the bottom half just leads to the sump.
The water pump required its metal gasket - what I have always done is cover the gasket with a bit of permatex insta-gasket - just for a bit of extra peace of mind. This gasket will only go on one way, so I actually spent a bit of time flipping the thing over trying to find the correct orientation. Once the correct orientation was found, saboteur's excellent suggestion was to put 2 bolts into the pump as I slowly pushed it against the block. The point of this was to ensure that the gasket did not move around. If it moves, then we break the permatex seal, and have potential to misalign the gasket. Once it was in the block, the bolts were done up finger tight, and then both the water pump and oil pump's bolts were tightened down to spec with the torque wrench. And now, it's really making progress...
Next, on went the timing cog and woodruff key:
One important thing here is to ensure you put the key on the correct way. On one end, the key is slightly chamfered - and the end of the crank has a gradient on it. The chamfer needs to meet this gradient. Get it wrong and you might end up causing a few problems. It needs to look like the picture below:
I won't actually put the main crank bolt in til I have set the timing - which requires another bolt for the timing belt idler. So once I get that bolt, I can set the timing - that rusty-looking thing that goes on the crank nose (which I believe to be a timing belt guide plate) will block putting the timing belt on - but, in hindsight I can 'cheat' by just putting the belt there, securing the plate and setting the timing later.
So, on went the oil pump. The 2 longest bolts went into the bottom, the next 3 mid-sized bolts, and finally the smallest bolt into the top. All I had to watch out for here was that I correctly put the RTV silicon in the correct places on the pump - you basically make an upside-down U shape on the back of the pump so that it can properly contain the oil. We don't need it on the bottom half, as the bottom half just leads to the sump.
The water pump required its metal gasket - what I have always done is cover the gasket with a bit of permatex insta-gasket - just for a bit of extra peace of mind. This gasket will only go on one way, so I actually spent a bit of time flipping the thing over trying to find the correct orientation. Once the correct orientation was found, saboteur's excellent suggestion was to put 2 bolts into the pump as I slowly pushed it against the block. The point of this was to ensure that the gasket did not move around. If it moves, then we break the permatex seal, and have potential to misalign the gasket. Once it was in the block, the bolts were done up finger tight, and then both the water pump and oil pump's bolts were tightened down to spec with the torque wrench. And now, it's really making progress...
Next, on went the timing cog and woodruff key:
One important thing here is to ensure you put the key on the correct way. On one end, the key is slightly chamfered - and the end of the crank has a gradient on it. The chamfer needs to meet this gradient. Get it wrong and you might end up causing a few problems. It needs to look like the picture below:
I won't actually put the main crank bolt in til I have set the timing - which requires another bolt for the timing belt idler. So once I get that bolt, I can set the timing - that rusty-looking thing that goes on the crank nose (which I believe to be a timing belt guide plate) will block putting the timing belt on - but, in hindsight I can 'cheat' by just putting the belt there, securing the plate and setting the timing later.